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Driving north through the narrow end of Lion Gulch, the red rock walls suddenly open to reveal a sweeping view of the “Slaughterhouse of the West.” This is Paradox, Colorado, a settlement named for the strange, paradoxical course of the Dolores River, which cuts across the valley rather than flowing along it. Fittingly, the town’s own past is just as contradictory: a history marked by violence and lawlessness, yet curiously absent from the broader record of the West. Paradox

A few weeks ago, I found myself roaming the alpine forests of the La Sal Mountains on a job that promises remote unpredictability. I was...

In the final installment of the series, we follow the life of a woman whose unwavering dedication helped preserve the historic town of...